SPLIT

Split je najveći grad u Dalmaciji, drugi po veličini grad u Hrvatskoj i administrativno središte Splitsko-dalmatinske županije.

 

Gradska naselja
Gradu Splitu pripada 8 naselja (stanje 2006), to su: Donje Sitno, Gornje Sitno, Kamen, Slatine, Split, Srinjine, Stobreč i Žrnovnica. Split je podijeljen na više gradskih kotareva: Bačvice, Blatine-Škrape, Bol, Brda, Grad, Gripe, Kman, Kocunar, Lokve, Lovret, Lučac-Manuš, Meje, Mejaši, Mertojak, Neslanovac, Plokite, Pujanke, Ravne njive, Sirobuja, Split 3, Sućidar, Šine, Špinut, Trstenik , Varoš, Visoka, Žnjan.

Ime

SplitGrad je kroz povijest više puta mijenjao ime, tako ga nalazimo kao Aspalathos/Spalatos (grč.), Spalatum (lat.), Spalato (tal.), Spljet, Split. Podrijetlo njegova imena se izvodi od biljke brnistre (žuke) koja ondje raste u izobilju. Grčki naziv za nju je aspalathos (ασπαλατηος).

Po drugoj teoriji, ime je nastalo od latinske riječi, kao uvećanica za palaču - tj. "palačetina" ili iz "spalato"=palačica, mala palača (tal.).

Sveci zaštitnici
Svetac zaštitnik Splita je sveti Dujam (Sveti Duje), biskup Salone, mučenik iz 304. godine, a suzaštitnici su sveti Anastazije (Staš) i blaženi Rajnerije (Arnir).

Crkvena upravna organizacija

Rimokatolička crkva
Grad Split je podijeljen na dvadesetak rimokatoličkih župa:

Sv. Dujma biskupa i mučenika Sv. Petra apostola Materinstva BDM - Brda
Sv. Roka - Manuš Marije Pomoćnice - Kman Gospe od Zdravlja - Dobri
Sv. Pavla - Pujanke Gospe od Milosrđa - Žnjan Gospe od Ružarija - Lučac
Sv. Spasa - Mejaši Sv. Stjepana - Meje Gospe od Pojišana - Pojišan
Sv. Trojice - Poljud Gospe od Pohođenja - Špinut Sv. Obitelji - Sukoišan
Gospe Fatimske - Škrape Sv. Križa - Veli Varoš Srca Isusova - Visoka
Sv. Leopolda Bogdana Mandića - Sirobuja Sv. Andrije apostola - Sućidar Sv. Josipa - Mertojak
Sv. Ivana Krstitelja - Trstenik Sv. Mateja - Ravne njive Sv. Marka - Neslanovac
Sv. Luke Evanđelista - Kocunar Sv.Mihovila - Šine,Kamen ...

Crkve reformacijska baštine
U Splitu djeluje nekoliko aktivnih crkava reformacijske ili protestantske baštine. Objedinjuje ih vjera u Isusa Krista kao jedinoga Spasitelja, da je Sveto pismo jedini autoritet vjere i ponašanja i da se ljudi trebaju klanjati i moliti jedino Trojedinom Bogu koji se objavio u Bibliji.

Evanđeoska crkva "Radosna vijest"
Baptistička crkva "Emanuel"
Baptistička crkva Split
Evangelička metodistička crkva

Položaj
Split je smješten na jadranskoj obali u srednjoj Dalmaciji na Splitskom (Marjanskom) poluotoku. Od uzvisina, okružuju ga u zaleđu - sa sjevera planina Mosor, sa sjeverozapada brdo Kozjak, s istoka brdo Perun, a najstarija gradska jezgra se nalazi podno brda Marjana, koje se nalazi zapadno od stare gradske jezgre. Splitski poluotok okružuju otoci Brač, Hvar, Šolta i poluotok Čiovo. Trajekti iz luke Split često su jedina veza otoka srednje Dalmacije s kopnom.Panoramski se Split može razgledati pobliže sa prve marjanske vidilice ili s 11 km udaljene kliške tvrđave s koje se vidi cijeli Split te splitski akvatorij s otocima.

Stanovništvo
Prema popisu stanovništva iz 2001. g. grad Split ima 188.694 stanovnika. Po narodnosti, 95,15% čine Hrvati, dok ostalih 4,85% čine pripadnici nacionalnih manjina od kojih više od 400 pripadnika imaju bošnjačka, crnogorska, slovenska i srpska.

88,37% Splićana se uzjasnilo kao pripadnici rimokatoličke vjere, njih 2,121% su pripadnici pravoslavne vjere, 3,78 % je bilo neizjašnjenih, 5,26% agnostika i ostalih 0,469% se izjasnilo kao pripadnici drugih vjera. Po popisu stanovništva iz 1991. godine, naseljeno mjesto Split imalo je 189,388 stanovnika.

Izvor: Državni zavod za statistiku

Aglomeracija naselja
Šire područje Splita broji oko 400.000 stanovnika.

Prema statutu Grad Split obuhvaća područje naselja: Split, Kamen, Stobreč, Slatine, Donje Sitno, Gornje Sitno, Srinjine i Žrnovnica, te pripadajući akvatorij.

Iako se, kao upravne jedinice, iduća naselja susjedna Splitu vode kao zasebna, ona čine jednu funkcionalnu cjelinu odnosno urbanu aglomeraciju:
sjeverno - Vranjic, Solin, Mravince, Kučine, Klis, Dugopolje
zapadno - Kaštela, Sveti Kajo, Divulje, Plano, Trogir, Seget Donji,
sjeveroistočno - Žrnovnica, Sitno Gornje, Sitno Donje, Srinjine,
istočno - Kamen, Stobreč, Strožanac, Podstrana, Sveti Martin, Mutogras, Bajnice, Krilo, Jesenice, Suhi Potok, Sumpetar, Mali Rat, Orij, Dugi Rat, Duće, Omiš.
Pojeftinjenjem trajektnih karata na cijenu autobusne karte za 1. zonu, slobodno se može reći, i s obzirom na kratkoću vremena putovanja, i gradić Supetar na otoku Braču je postao južna splitska "četvrt".

Poteškoće u razvoju aglomeracije
Split u posljednjih dvadesetak godina nezavidno stagnira. Ovo se pak ogleda u krajnjem slučaju čak i u demografskim pokazateljima. Mogu se samo nagađati razlozi, ali zasigurno je jedan od najvažnijih teritorijalna usitnjenost i nedostatak koordinacije među pojedinim gradovima u aglomeraciji, koja je potpuno nepromišljena kao cjelina. Nažalost sve je veće zaostajanje Splita, kao i ostalih regija u Hrvatskoj koji su uvjetovani prevelikom centralizacijom Hrvatske, globalizacijom, promjenama na tržištu, te nespremnosti u regijama za promjene.

Put razvoju je dugotrajan; u zadnje vrijeme vide se pomaci, otvaranjem autoceste Zagreb-Split (A1) razbija se prometna izoliranost, u Dugopolju gradi se velika industrijska zona, stvara se novi generalni urbanistički plan (2005.) jedan od prvih je od pomaka prema otvaranju debate o tome kako bi se grad trebao razvijati. U prvoj polovici 2006. splitsko gospodarstvo je bilo u porastu od čak 6%, dok je strano ulaganje u grad bilo u porastu nevjerojatnih 76% čime je postao grad s jednom od najbrže rastućom ekonomijom u Republici Hrvatskoj.

Veliku nadu pruža i izgradnja novog (i jedinog u Hrvatskoj te vrste) sveučilišnog kampusa na Pisanom kamenu tj. Smrdečcu, te otvaranje Mediteranskog instituta za istraživanje života, koji bi trebali osigurati da Split postane jedan od velikih europskih sveučilišnih središta.

Povijest

Pretpovijest
Najstariji tragovi naselja na području grada Splita su nađeni na gradskom predjelu Gripe.

Stari vijek
Iako se nastanak grada Splita povezuje s gradnjom Dioklecijanove palače, 295.-305.godine, tj. u 4. stoljeću, arheološki nalazi iskopani poslije 2000. godine (sakralni objekti, amfiteatar, luka na sjevernoj strani Marjana), dokazuju da je ovo područje bilo naseljeno u starorimskom dobu, davno prije Dioklecijana. Moguće je da je tu bila i jedna od grčkih kolonija, a zbog povoljnog zemljopisnog položaja vjerojatno i ilirsko naselje.

Dioklecijan, rimski car od 284. - 305., potekao je iz skromne obitelji i originalno se zvao Diokles. Poznat je kao veliki reformator Rimskoga Carstva jer je uveo sustav zvan tetrarhija, što je simultana vladavina četiri vladara. Bio je progonitelj kršćana koji se smatrao bogom. Velika palača na području današnjega Splita sagrađena je da u njoj provede umirovljeničke dane (Dioklecijan je bio jedini rimski car koji je odstupio bez prisile).

Dioklecijanova palača najveća je i najbolje sačuvana kasnoantička palača na svijetu. Istočni i zapadni zid dugački su 216 m, južni 181 m, a sjeverni 175 m. U sjevernom dijelu palače bila je smještena posluga i vojska dok su južno bile same careve odaje. U upotrebi je bio vodovod koji dovodi vodu s izvora rijeke Jadro, a koristi se jednim dijelom i danas. Najnovija od teorija tvrdi da Dioklecijanova palača nikad nije bila samo mjesto za odmor, nego prava tvornica za preradu vune. Godine 480. u palači je otrovan posljednji zakoniti car Zapadnog Rimskog carstva Julije Nepot (često navođeni Romul Augustul 'vladao' je samo Italijom). Jedna ulica današnjega Splita nosi njegovo ime.

Danas su od kompleksa sačuvane zidine, 4 vrata (Zlatna - Porta Aurea, Srebrna - Porta Argentea, Željezna - Porta Ferrea i Mjedena - Porta Aenea), carev mauzolej (danas katedrala Sv. Duje), kutne kule, Jupiterov hram ili Hram svih bogova, središnji trg - Peristil, te neposredno na jug od Peristila, Vestibul.

Srednji vijek
Značajnije naseljavanje Dioklecijanove palače započelo je vjerojatno od 7.st., u vrijeme prvih slavensko-avarskih provala. Kasnije se Split proširio i izvan zidina. Poslije doseljenja Hrvata, Split je ostao romanski grad. Dugo je bio dio takozvane Bizantske Dalmacije budući da je kao i drugi gradovi na obali povremeno bio pod vlašću Bizanta, a povremeno pod kontrolom hrvatskih knezova i kraljeva . Split je kristijaniziran u to doba, pa je tako i carev mauzolej postao crkva. Naknadno je, u baroku za vrijeme nadbiskupa Marka Antonija de Dominisa dodan kor, a od 13.-18. st. dozidan je monumentalni zvonik, (u 19. st. temeljito obnovljen.)

U 10. stoljeću su se u Splitu održali ključni crkveni sabori, koji su odlučili o sudbini glagoljaša, Ninske biskupije (vidi Grgur Ninski) i crkve u Hrvata.
Na poluotočiću zapadno od Gradske luke se u srednjem vijeku nalazio benediktinski samostan sv. Stipana pod borima (San Stephanus de Pinis). Po istome je taj poluotočić i nazvan - Sustipan. Najpoznatiji zaređenik tog samostana je bio sin hrvatskog kralja Dmitra Zvonimira, Stjepan. Osnivač tog samostana je bio splitski nadbiskup Lovre, inače prijatelj kralja Zvonimira, 1069. godine.

Od 11. stoljeća, bizantsku vlast u Splitu nastavljaju različiti vladari (normanski, ugarski), a grad sve do XV. stoljeća djeluje kao samostalna komuna, s vlastitim Vijećem i Statutom iz 1312. godine. Statut grada Splita i Libro d`oro ili Zlatna knjiga čine jedinstvenu cjelinu i dragocjeno su vrelo za upoznavanje pravno-političkog i uopće društvenog života grada od 13. stoljeća do propasti Venecije 1797. godine. Prvi statut nazvan Capitularium iz 1240. godine nije se sačuvao. Sastavljen je za prvog potestata Gargana de Arscindisa, koji je pozvan iz Ankone za gradonačelnika po ideji Tome Arhiđakona. Novu kodifikaciju splitskog prava načinio je Perceval, sin Ivana, iz Ferma, također iz talijanske regije Marche 1312. godine i pisan je kako je tada bilo uobičajeno u Europi, latinskim jezikom. Postoje razni prijepisi.

Novi vijek
Od 15. stoljeća do pada Mletaka 1791., cijela je Dalmacija bila je pod mletačkom vlašću. Za vrijeme turskih osvajanja, dijelom splitskog zaleđa zavladali su Osmanlije pa se Split počeo razvijati kao grad na granici i kao uvozno-izvozna luka. Grad je i ranije bio kulturno središte u kojem je djelovao jedan od prvih i najboljih hrvatskih književnika, pisac Marko Marulić, autor poznatog epa Judita.

Od 1805. do 1813. Splitom je, kao cijelom Dalmacijom, vladala napoleonska Francuska. Uspomena na kratkotrajnu vlast Francuza u Splitu je prva suvremena ulica, danas Marmontova, i marjanski vrh Telegrin. Po porazu Napoleona, Dalmacija je pripala habsburškoj Austriji.

Splitska riva u 19. stoljeću
Splitska riva 2007. godine
Kip Grgura Ninskog u SplituNakon Austro-ugarske nagodbe i stvaranja dvojne monarhije, Dalmacija i Split su pripali austrijskom dijelu Monarhije. Split je bio jedno od žarišta borbe pro-talijanskih (u početku ne pro-talijanskih) autonomaša i narodnika koji su se zalagali za čvršće veze s ostatkom Hrvatske.
28. listopada 1882. narodnici su preuzeli vlast u splitskoj gradskoj općini. Ipak, do kraja prvog svjetskog rata Dalmacija nije ujedinjena s Hrvatskom. Unatoč velikom lučkom prometu, izgradnja poveznice s kontinentalnom željezničkom mrežom započela je tek 1912., ali je prekinuta zbog izbijanja prvog svjetskog rata.

Po svršetku prvog svjetskog rata Dalmacija ulazi u novostvorenu državu (Kraljevina Srba, Hrvata i Slovenaca), koja kasnije postaje Jugoslavija). Grad od tada dijeli sudbinu Hrvatske i Hrvata.

Od tog trenutka Split je počeo intenzivno rasti, postajati sve važnije kulturno, administrativno i gospodarsko središte. Gospodarskom razvitku Splita vrlo je pridonijelo, zalaganjem tadašnjeg gradonačelnika dra Ive Tartaglie, dovršenje željezničke pruge prema Zagrebu (Ličke pruge) godine 1925.. I pripojenje Italiji Zadra, Istre i Rijeke (gradova i krajeva koji su bili većinski hrvatski) ili Trsta (koji je imao značajnu slovensku i hrvatsku zajednicu) doprinosi tome. Brojni Hrvati koji ne žele pod talijansku vlast i žele izbjeći talijaniziranje i tal. vlast, sele, prenoseći svoje glavnice i poduzeća, i u Split. Uza sve to, Split je postao i sjedište velike upravne jedinice, Primorske banovine.

Kultura
Arheološki muzej u Splitu
Etnografski muzej u Splitu
Galerija "Meštrović"
Galerija umjetnina u Splitu
Hrvatski pomorski muzej Split
Meštrovićev kaštelet
Muzej grada Splita
Muzej hrvatskih arheoloških spomenika
Prirodoslovni muzej i zoološki vrt

Sport
Splićani vole reći za svoj grad da je "najsportskiji grad na svitu".

U Splitu su se održala i brojna međunarodna sportska natjecanja, primjerice Mediteranske igre 1979. godine, Prvenstvo Europe u plivanju i vaterpolu 1981. i Europsko prvenstvo u atletici 1990. godine.

U Splitu djeluju brojna sportska društva, a mnoga od njih su se okitila i kontinentalnim naslovima. Među ostalima, u Splitu djeluju:

Nogomet: HNK Hajduk Split, RNK Split, HNK Krilnik Split, NK Akademac Split, NK Dalmatinac Split
Košarka: KK Split (znan i kao KK Jugoplastika), KK Dalvin
Vaterpolo: POŠK, Jadran, Mornar, ŽVK Bura, Lubinski porat, Pauk, Split, Veteran '70, Zenta
Rukomet (muški): RK Split, RK Brda
Rukomet (žene): RK Nada (pod imenom RK Dalma donijeli su naslov osvajačica Kupa pobjednica kupova), RK Split Kaltenberg
Kuglanje: među brojnima ističemo KK Poštar, koji je donio prvi naslov europskog prvaka u Split
Veslanje: VK Gusar (Celent i Mrduljaš - bronca na OI 1980., braća Skelin srebro na OI 2004.) i VK Mornar
Jedrenje: JK Labud, JK Mornar, JK Split, JK Zenta, JK Špinut
Ragbi: RK Nada (pobjednici Srednjoeuropskog kupa) i Ragbi 59
Bejzbol: BK Nada
Plivanje: PK POŠK, PK Jadran, PK Mornar
Planinarski klubovi: HPK Dalmacija
Atletika: ASK, AK Hajduk
Balote: BK Marjan, BK Nada, FINA, Elektrodalmacija
Koturaljaško-klizačko klub Split [1]
hokej Klub Split [2]
U Splitu djeluju i brojni klubovi borilačkih sportova (karate, tae-kwon-do, judo, aikido, boks, kick-boks, full-contact, tajlandski boks) koji su dali brojne velikane borbenih vještina u europskim i svjetskim mjerilima. Od najuspješnijih boraca spomenimo Branka Cikatića, Marka Žaju, Sinišu Andrijaševića.

Nadalje, Split ima teniski klub (Goran Ivanišević), boćarske klubove, klubove dizača utega (Nikolaj Pešalov)

Splićani se mogu ponositi i vozačem moto-trka Ivanom Šolom, pilotom prve hrvatske bob-posade, koja je također bila sastavljena od Splićana.

Od sportskih priredbi koje se održavaju u Splitu, valja spomenuti veličanstvenu Mrdujsku regatu jedriličara, koja je otvorena gotovo svima, od vrhunskih profesionalaca, do onih koji su toliko svladali vještinu jedrenja da bi izbjegavali sudare na moru. Tako se zbog velikog broja sudionika 2004. godine startna crta mjerila miljama.

Do kasnih 1980-tih, u Splitu se ljeti održavao nogometni "Trofej Marjan", na kojemu su sudjelovali brojni veliki svjetski nogometni klubovi (Ajax, Girondins de Bordeaux, Vasco da Gama i dr.) i velike svjetske nogometne reprezentacije, među kojima su najpoznatije SSSR i Hrvatska.

Prokurative
Poznati Splićani i Splićanke
Ovdje ulaze osobe koje su rođene i/ili su djelovale u Splitu.

Glazbenici

Zabavna glazba i "lake note"
Marijan Ban, skladatelj i pjevač
Meri Cetinić, kantautorica
Oliver Dragojević, pjevač zabavne glazbe
Petar Grašo, pjevač zabavne glazbe
Zdenko Runjić, skladatelj popularne glazbe
Zlatan Stipišić - Gibonni, skladatelj i pjevač
Severina Vučković, pop pjevačica i glumica
Toma Bebić, pjevač, književnik, umjetnik
Matko Jelavić, pjevač
Hari Rončević, kantautor
Goran Karan, pjevač
Neno Belan, pjevač (Đavoli)
Doris Dragović, pjevačica
Zorica Kondža, pjevačica
Giuliano, pjevač
Dino Dvornik, pjevač
Dean Dvornik, pjevač
Tonči Huljić, skladatelj (Magazin)
Tedi Spalato, pjevač
Jasmin Stavros, pjevač

Glazbeni sastavi
Metak
More
Magazin
Đavoli
Osmi putnik
Daleka obala
Pheeling (Giulianov prvi sastav)
TBF

Skladatelji
Ivo Tijardović, skladatelj
Jakov Gotovac, skladatelj
Josip Hatze, skladatelj
Boris Papandopulo, skladatelj i dirigent
Franz von Suppé, skladatelj, otac bečke operete
Više...

Likovni umjetnici
Emanuel Vidović, slikar
Vasko Lipovac, slikar, kipar
Matko Trebotić, slikar
Josip Botteri-Dini, slikar
Kažimir Hraste, kipar
Kuzma Kovačić, kipar

Književnici (pisci, pjesnici, esejisti...)
Marko Marulić, književnik, ,,otac hrvatske književnosti"
Luka Botić, književnik i botaničar
Tonči Petrasov Marović, književnik
Miljenko Smoje, novinar i pisac
Bogdan Radica, publicist, esejist, kritičar, povjesničar, diplomat
Enzo Bettiza, književnik
Ante Tomić, pisac

Dramski umjetnici (glumci, redatelji...)
Boris Dvornik, glumac
Zdravka Krstulović, glumica
Josip Genda, glumac
Arijana Čulina, glumica
Žarko Radić, glumac
Milan Štrljić, glumac,redatelj
Nives Ivanković, glumica
Milka Podrug Kokotović,glumica
Ognjen Sviličić, redatelj

 

Športaši

Nogomet
Tomislav Ivić
Frane Matošić
Pero Nadoveza
Vladimir Beara
Ivan Katalinić
Ivan Buljan
Ivica Šurjak
Ivan Gudelj
Zlatko Vujović
Dragan Holcer
Slaven Bilić
Aljoša Asanović
Igor Štimac
Jurica Jerković
Slaviša Žungul

Košarka
Branko Radović
Rato Tvrdić
Petar Skansi
Damir Šolman
Željko Jerkov
Velimir Perasović
Toni Kukoč
Dino Rađa

Ostali športovi
rukomet
Tonći Peribonio
Vatromir Srhoj
Nataša Kolega
Ivano Balić
Petar Metličić
tenis
Goran Ivanišević
Nikola Pilić
Željko Franulović
Mario Ančić
atletika
Blanka Vlašić
plivanje
Đurđica Bjedov
Duje Draganja
Veljko Rogošić
veslanje
Zlatko Celent
Duško Mrduljaš
Siniša Skelin
Nikša Skelin
borilački športovi
Branko Cikatić
jedrenje
Karlo Kuret
Ivan Kljaković-Gašpić
Minski Fabris
Mate Arapov

Političari
Dioklecijan, rimski car
Gajo Bulat, odvjetnik, općinski načelnik u Splitu, zastupnik u Dalmatinskom saboru i bečkom Carevinskom vijeću
Ivo Tartaglia,odvjetnik, gradonačelnik, ban Primorske banovine
Ante Trumbić, odvjetnik,hrvatski političar, prvi ministar vanjskih poslova kraljevine SHS,
Ivo Sanader, hrvatski premijer

Gradovi pobratimi/prijatelji
Grad Grad Grad Grad Grad
Ancona Antofagasta Punta Arenas Bet Shemesh Cockburn Charlottenburg-Wilmersdorf
(okrug u Berlinu)
Dover Gladsaxe Los Angeles Mostar Odesa
Ostrava Pescara Štip Trondheim Velenje

Predložena pobratimstva:

Debrecen (mađ.prijedlog još iz 1. polovice 1990-ih)
Rosario (arg.ponuda stigla 25. srpnja 2006.)
Povelja o prijateljstvu:

Jeruzalem

Konzulati u Splitu
Država Država Država
Ujedinjeno Kraljevstvo Irska Finska
Njemačka Nizozemska Danska
Slovenija Italija Švedska
Španjolska Čile Austrija
Češka Slovačka

Zanimljivosti
Nakon Olimpijskih igara u Ateni 2004. Split je grad sa najviše olimpijskih medalja na svijetu u odnosu na broj stanovnika [nedostaje izvor].
U samom centru Splita se nalaze toplice s vlastitim izvorom ljekovite sumporne vode.

 

SPLIT

Split (Greek: Ασπάλαθος, Aspálathos; Latin: Spalatum; Italian: Spalato) is the largest and most important city in Dalmatia, the administrative center of Croatia's Split-Dalmatia County, and the country's second-largest city. It is a Mediterranean city, situated on a small peninsula on the eastern shores of the Adriatic Sea.

History

Antiquity

Palace of the Roman Emperor Diocletian, around which the city emerged.Although the beginnings of Split are usually linked to the building of Diocletian's Palace, the city was founded as a Greek colony of Aspálathos much earlier. The Greek settlement lived off trade with the surrounding Illyrian tribes, mostly the Delmatae, who inhabited the (much larger) nearby city of Salona.
In time, the Roman Republic became the dominant power in the region, and conquered the Illyrians in the Illyrian Wars of 229 BC and 219 BC. Upon establishing permanent control, the Romans founded the province of Dalmatia with Salona as the capital. The nearby town accordingly changed its name from "Aspálathos" to "Spalatum".

After almost dying from a sickness, the Roman Emperor Diocletian (ruled AD 284 to 305), great reformer of the late Roman Empire, decided to retire from politics in AD 305. The Emperor ordered work to begin on a retirement palace near his hometown, and since he was from the town of Dioclea near Salona, he chose the nearby seaside town of Spalatum for the location. Work on the palace began in AD 293 in readiness for his retirement from politics. The palace was built as a massive structure, much like a Roman military fortress. It faces the sea on its south side, with its walls 170 to 200 meters (570 to 700 feet) long, and 15 to 20 meters (50 to 70 feet) high, enclosing an area of 38,000m² (9½ acres). The Emperor retired exactly according to schedule, and became the first Roman emperor to voluntarily remove himself from office.[1] The palace water supply was substantial, fed by an aqueduct from Jadro Spring.[2]

Following the fall of the Western Roman Empire in AD 476, Spalatum fell under the rule of the Byzantine Emperors. It grew very slowly as a satellite town of the much larger Salona. However, around AD 639 Salona fell to the invasion of Avars and Slavs, and was razed to the ground, with the majority of the displaced citizens fleeing to the nearby Adriatic islands. Following the return of Byzantine rule to the area, the Romanic citizens returned to the mainland under the leadership of the nobleman known as Severus the Great. They chose to inhabit Diocletian's Palace in Spalatum, because of its strong (more "medieval") fortifications. The palace was long deserted by this time, and the interior was converted into a city by the Salona refugees, making Spalatum much larger as the successor to the capital city of the province. Today the palace constitutes the inner core of the city, still inhabited, full of shops, markets, squares, with an ancient cathedral (formerly Diocletian's mausoleum) inserted in the corridors and floors of the former palace. As a part of the Byzantine Empire, the town had varying but significant political autonomy.

Middle Ages

Walls of the Roman Diocletian's Palace in Split.The Medieval period in Split's Dalmatia province is marked by the waning power of the Byzantine Empire, and by the struggle of the neighboring powers, namely the Venetian Republic, the Kingdom of Croatia, and (later) the Kingdom of Hungary, to fill the power vacuum. [3]

The arrival of the South Slavs (mostly Croats) in the 7th century AD profoundly influenced the area. The hinterland and the islands were predominantly populated by the Croats, who began influencing the city itself. The early Medieval Croatian state (later the Kingdom of Croatia) founded neighbouring littoral cities (such as Šibenik), and encompassed the vast majority of the hinterland. In the following centuries Split developed an increasingly Croatian character, which can be seen in the architecture (particularly of churches) in the city and its surroundings. The city's Romanic population increasingly mingled with the surrounding populace.

To the north, the Venetian Republic began to influence the Dalmatian region from the 10th century, using its growing economic influence to gain control over the islands and the coastal cities. It gained control over the city during several periods, due mostly to the temporary weakness of the Croatian or Hungarian state.

With the decline of the Byzantine Empire, the Kingdom of Croatia held de-facto suzerainty over the city, granting it significant autonomy due to the state's feudal character. In the year 1102, Croatia was forced into a personal union with the Kingdom of Hungary (see Croatian pacta conventa) by its King, Coloman. The city however maintained its significant degree of independence, and in 1312, it issued statues as well as currency of its own.

Venetian and Austrian rule

Split city harbour and the scenic Marjan hill.During the 20-year Hungarian civil war between King Sigismund and the Neapolitan house of Anjou, the losing contender, Ladislaus of Naples, sold his "rights" on Dalmatia to the Venetian Republic for a mere 100,000 ducats. The much more centralized Republic took over the city by the year 1420, it was to remain under Venetian rule for 377 years (1420 - 1797).[4]
The population was by that time largely Croatian, but besides Slavic, the common language was also Italian (a mixture of Tuscan and Venetian dialects). The autonomy of the city was reduced: the highest authority was a prince-captain, always of Venetian birth.

Despite this, Split eventually developed into a significant port-city, with important trade routes to the Ottoman-held interior through the nearby Klis pass. Culture flourished as well, Split being the hometown of Marko Marulić, a classic Croatian author. Marko Marulić's most acclaimed work, Judita (1501), was written in Split, and was published there in 1521. It is widely held to be the first modern work of Croatian literature. Still, it should be noted the advances and achievemnts were reserved mostly for the aristocracy: the illiteracy rate was extremely high, mostly because Venetian rule showed little interest in educational and medical facilities. Split was ruled by the Venetian Republic up to its downfall in 1797. After a brief period of Napoleonic rule (1806–1813), the city was allocated to the Empire of Austria by the Congress of Vienna. Large investments were undertaken in the city during that period, new streets were built and parts of the ancient fortifications were removed.[5]

During the period of the Austrian Empire Split's region, the Kingdom of Dalmatia, was a separate administrative unit. After the revolutions of 1848 as a result of the romantic nationalism, two factions appeared. One was the pro-Croatian Unionist faction (later called the "Puntari" faction), led by the People's Party and, to a lesser extent, the Party of Rights, both of which advocated the union of Dalmatia with Croatia-Slavonia which was under Hungarian administration. This faction was strongest in Split, and used it as its headquarters. The other faction was the pro-Italian Autonomist faction (also known as the "Irredentist" faction), whose political goals of which varied from autonomy within the Austro-Hungarian Empire, to a political union with Italy.
The political alliances in Split shifted over time. At the beginning, the Unionists and Autonomists were allied together, against centralism of Vienna. After a while, when the national question came to prominence, they separated. Under Austria, however, Split can generally be said to have stagnated. The great upheavals in Europe in 1848 gained no ground in Split, and the city did not rebel.

20th century

[edit] Kingdom of Yugoslavia
After the end of World War I and the dissolution of Austria-Hungary, the province of Dalmatia, along with Split, became a part of The Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes (which in 1929 changed its name to Kingdom of Yugoslavia). Since both Rijeka and Zadar, the two other large cities on the eastern Adriatic coast, were annexed by Italy, Split became the most important port in Yugoslavia. In the new country, Split became the seat of new administrative unit, Littoral Banovina. The Lika railway, connecting Split to the rest of the country, was completed in 1925.

Split from the air.After the Cvetković-Maček agreement, Split became the part of new administrative unit (merging of Sava and Littoral Banovina plus some Croat populated areas), Banovina of Croatia in Kingdom of Yugoslavia.

World War II
In April 1941, following the invasion of Yugoslavia by the Nazi Germany, Split was occupied by Italy and formally annexed one month later. Italian rule met heavy opposition from the Croat majority and almost a third of the population joined Josip Broz Tito's Partisans. The local football clubs refused to compete in the Italian championship; HNK Hajduk and RNK Split suspended its activities and later both joined the Partisans along with their entire staff. Soon after Hajduk became the official football club of the Partisan movement.

In September 1943, following the capitulation of Italy, the city was liberated by Tito's brigades with thousands of people volunteering to join the Partisans, only to be placed (by the Wehrmacht) under the occupation of the Nazi puppet NDH (the so called "Independent State of Croatia") just a few weeks later. During the occupation, some of the port facilities as well as parts of the old city were damaged by NDH and German bombing. In a tragic turn of events, besides being bombed by axis forces, the heavily pro-Partisan city was also bombed by the Allies, causing hundreds of deaths. Partisans finally liberated the city on October 26, 1944. On February 12, 1945 the Kriegsmarine conducted a daring raid on the Split harbor, damaging the British cruiser Delhi. Until the end of war Split was the provisional capital of Partisan-controlled Croatia.[6]

SFR Yugoslavia

The famous bell tower of the ancient Split cathedral.After World War II, Split became a part of the Socialist Republic of Croatia, itself a constituent sovereign republic of the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. During the period the city experienced its largest economical and demographic boom. Dozens of new factories and other companies were founded with the cities population increasing three times during the period. The city became the economic center of an area far exceeding the borders of Croatia and was flooded by waves of rural migrants from the undeveloped hinterland who found employment in the newly built factories, a part of large-scale industrialization and investment by the Yugoslav Federal government. The shipbuilding industry was particularly successful, with Yugoslavia becoming one of the world's top nations in the field. Many recreational facilities were also constructed with federal funding, especially for the 1979 Mediterranean Games, such as the Poljud Stadium, an architectural marvel. The city also became the largest passenger and military port in Yugoslavia and the center of the Yugoslav People's Army's (Croato-Serbian: Jugoslavenska Narodna Armija, JNA) Coastal Military District (equivalent of a field army) along with the headquarters of the Yugoslav War Navy (Croato-Serbian: Jugoslavenska Ratna Mornarica, JRM).

In the period between 1945 and 1990, the city was totally transformed and expanded, taking up the whole of the peninsula. In the same period (considered its golden age) it achieved an as yet unsurpassed GDP and employment level, far above the present day's, and became one of the largest cities in the whole of Yugoslavia.

Republic of Croatia

Split at night.When Croatia declared its independence in 1991, Split had a large garrison of JNA troops (drafted from all over Yugoslavia), as well as facilities and the headquarters of the Yugoslav War Navy (JRM). This led to a months-long tense stand-off between the JNA and Croatian National Guard and police forces, occasionally flaring up with various incidents.

The most tragic such incident occurred in November 15 1991, when the JRM light frigate Split fired a small number of shells at the city. The damage was insignificant, but there were a few casualties. In this incident, only the old town was shelled, as it was exclusively Croat-populated. This was the only time in history that a city was bombarded by a military vessel bearing its name.[citation needed] On the same day of the attack, Croat forces damaged the light frigate, forcing it to be abandoned. Sailors of the JRM who had refused to attack Croat civilians, most of them Croats themselves, were left in the vessel's brig.
The JNA and JRM evacuated all of its facilities in Split during January 1992. The economic recession soon began.

Government
The mayor of Split is Ivan Kuret of the Croatian Democratic Union while the City Council currently has the following makeup:[7]

Croatian Democratic Union (HDZ) 6 seats
Social Democratic Party (SDP) 5 seats
Velo Misto List 3 seats
Croatian Party of Pensioners (HSU) 2 seats
Croatian People's Party (HNS) 2 seats
Independent City List 2 seats
Croatian Social Liberal Party (HSLS) 1 seat
Croatian Democratic Republican Party (HDRS) 1 seat
Croatian Party of Rights(HSP) 1 seat
Croatian Bloc (HB) 1 seat
Croatian Pure Party of Rights (HČSP) 1 seat

Economy
Split's economy has slowly begun to emerge from the recession caused by the transfer to a market economy, and the privatization. During this shadowy privatization process and the breakdown of law and order caused by the breakup of SFR Yugoslavia, a large number of the city's prosperous companies were utterly ruined by criminal activity and corruption as people enjoying the new government's support scrambled to make as much money as possible by dismantling the industry and selling its property off piecemeal.
However, in the Yugoslav era the city had been a highly significant economic center with a modern and diverse industrial and economic base including shipbuilding, food, chemical, plastics, textile, paper industry, etc. Today most of the factories are out of business (or are far below pre-civil war production and employment capacity) and the city has been trying to concentrate on commerce and services, consequently leaving an alarmingly large number of factory workers unemployed. It has nevertheless managed to relatively maintain its position as an important transportation, commercial, and administrative center of Dalmatia, ensuring stable, though lethargic economic growth.

Panoramic view of Split as seen from the Marjan hill.The prospects for the future perhaps look somewhat brighter. The new A1 motorway, integrating Split with the rest of the Croatian freeway network, has helped stimulate economic production and investment, with new businesses being built in the city center and its wildy sprawling suburbs. The entire route was opened in July 2005. Today, the city's economy relies mostly on trade and tourism with some old industries undergoing partial revival, such as food (fishing, olive, wine production), paper, concrete and chemicals.

A government report in late October 2006 released somewhat positive information regarding Split's economy. In 2005 and 2006, 4000 new jobs were created in Split's rather large province. Foreign investment in the first six months of 2006 grew by 76%, and for the first time export levels were greater than import levels. Also, Split's economy in the first half of 2006 grew at a 6% rate. Additionally, 2006 brought to Split many shipbuilding jobs, which signify the beginning of revitalization for the once-massive shipbuilding industry in Split.

Split is situated on a peninsula between the eastern part of the Gulf of Kaštela and the Split Channel. The Marjan hill (178m), rises in the western part of the peninsula. The ridges Kozjak (779m) and his brother Mosor (1339m) protect the city from the north and northeast, and separate it from the hinterland.

Split has a Mediterranean climate: hot, dry summers (maximum air temperature in July reaches 42 °C) and warm, wet winters (average annual rainfall is 900mm). Split is one of the sunniest places in Europe.

Vegetation is of the evergreen Mediterranean type, and subtropical flora (palm-trees, agaves, cacti) grow in the city and its surroundings. The Marjan hill is covered with a cultivated forest.

Demographics
According to the 2001 census, the city of Split had 188,694 citizens, in 2007 this rose to 221,456. There are approximately 410,000 people in the Split metropolitan area. Split has one of the largest demographic growths in Croatia. The entire Split-Dalmatia county has around 470,000 residents, with Croats making up 95.15% of the population.[2] 88.37% of the residents of the city are Roman Catholics.[3]

Transport

Entrance to the Split International Airport terminal.Split is an important transport center for Dalmatia and the wider region. In addition to the Zagreb-Split freeway (A1), all the road traffic along the Adriatic coast on the route Zadar–Dubrovnik flows through the city. The city also has an impressive series of expressways and avenues, enabling efficient, fast transit by car around the city and its suburbs.
City public transport is conducted by bus, the city being inadequate for trams due to its hilly structure. The local public transport company Promet Split has recently renovated its fleet with the latest models.

The airport in Kaštela is the third largest in Croatia in terms of passenger numbers (1,095,852 in 2006), with year-round services to Zagreb, Frankfurt and the Cologne Bonn Airport in Germany, as well as heavy tourist traffic in the summer.
The expansion of the terminal is scheduled to commence in 2008.

The Split passenger seaport is the third busiest port in the Mediterranean, with daily coastal routes to Rijeka, Dubrovnik and Ancona in Italy. During the summer season Split is connected with other Italian cities as well, such as Pescara. Most of the central Dalmatian islands are only reachable via the Split harbour (with Jadrolinija and Split Tours ferries). This includes the islands of Brač, Hvar and Šolta, as well as the more distant Vis, Korčula and Lastovo .

Split's Riva, after its recent controversial renovation.Split is the southernmost integrated point of the Croatian Railway network. Within Split's city centre, railway traffic passes two tunnels before reaching the Central Station. The line to Split is unremarkable; a journey from Split to Zagreb or Rijeka takes around 5 hours, as the line is unelectrified and consists of only one track. Currently, there are no definite plans to upgrade the line, but with the start of work on the new Zagreb-Rijeka railway line in October 2007, the line to Split may very well see renovation in the near future.

The Split Suburban Railway network opened in early December 2006. It currently has one line, running from the Split city harbour to Kaštel Stari. The line is expected to get a second track and be fully electrified by 2008. New, low-floor trains are expected to be implemented as well. This line will also be lengthened, to encompass the aforementioned Split International Airport, and continue on to the towns of Trogir and Seget Donji.
Split also plans to construct a mini-metro that is to be operational by 2009.

Culture

Statue of Gregory of Nin by Ivan Meštrović, 1929.Historical Complex of Split with the Palace of Diocletian*
UNESCO World Heritage Site

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

State Party Croatia
Type Cultural
Criteria ii, iii, iv
Reference 97
Region† Europe and North America
Inscription history
Inscription 1979 (3rd Session)
* Name as inscribed on World Heritage List.
† Region as classified by UNESCO.
Since 1979, the historic center of Split has been included in the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites.

Split is also known as one of the centres of Croatian culture. Its literary tradition can be traced to medieval times, and includes names like Marko Marulić, while in more modern times Split excelled by authors famous for their sense of humour. Among them the most notable is Miljenko Smoje.
Also well known is Ivo Tijardović, and his famous operetta "Little Floramye". Both Smoje and Tijardović are thought to represent the old Split traditions that are slowly dying out due to the city being overwhelmed by large numbers of rural migrants from the undeveloped hinterland. The old Split families still desperately cling the littoral Dalmatian way of life and values, often publicly stating their disgust at the ruralisation of the ancient city.

Split also houses two important archeological museums - one dedicated to antiquity, another to the early medieval period. The most recognisable aspect of Split culture is popular music. Notable composers include Ivo Tijardović, Zdenko Runjić - some of the most influential musicians in former Yugoslavia. There is great cultural activity during summers, when the prestigious Split Music Festival is held, followed by Split Summer (Splitsko ljeto) theatre festival. The largest concerts in Split since Croatian independence have been held by Mišo Kovač, Thompson, and a night of traditional klapa singers from across Dalmatia, all at Poljud.

Despite colourful settings and characters, as well as cinema tradition that could be traced to early 20th century and works of Josip Karaman, there were relatively few films shot in or around Split.

Sports

The Poljud Stadium, an architectural marvel built by the Yugoslav Federal Government for the 1979 Mediterranean Games.Sportsmen are traditionally very respected in Split, and the city is famous for producing many champions. The most popular sports in Split are football (soccer), tennis, basketball, swimming, rowing, sailing, waterpolo, athletics and handball.

The city's football (soccer) club is HNK Hajduk, arguably the most popular club in Croatia. The main football stadium is the Poljud Stadium, with 35,000 capacity (55,000 prior to the renovation to an all-seater). Basketball is also popular, and the city basketball club, KK Split (Jugoplastika), holds the absolute record of winning the Euroleague three consecutive times (1989-1991), with notable players like Toni Kukoč and Dino Rađa both of whom are Split natives.

Split's most famous tennis stars are the retired Wimbledon champion Goran Ivanišević and Mario Ančić ("Super Mario"). Members of the local rowing club VK Gusar won numerous Olympic and World Championship medals.
Swimming also has a long tradition in Split, with Duje Draganja and Vanja Rogulj as the most famous swimmers from the city. As a member of the ASK Split athletics club, the champion Blanka Vlašić also originates from the city. The biggest sports events to be held in Split were the 1979 Mediterranean Games, and the 1990 European Athletics Championships.

Picigin is a traditional local sport (originating in 1908), played on several of the city beaches (Bačvice). It is played in shallow water with a small ball. There is a tradition of playing picigin in Split on New Year's Day, regardless of the weather conditions, in spite of the sea temperature rarely exceeding 10 °C.[citation needed]

Sister cities/towns
Los Angeles, USA
Ancona, Italy
Antofagasta, Chile
Punta Arenas, Chile
Bet Shemesh, Israel
Cockburn, Australia
Dover, United Kingdom
Gladsaxe, Denmark
Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Odessa, Ukraine
Ostrava, Czech Republic
Pescara, Italy
Štip, Republic of Macedonia
Trondheim, Norway
Velenje, Slovenia
Charlottenburg-Wilmersdorf of Berlin, Germany

 

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